Monday, June 4, 2007

Day 2: Perseverance Trail & Alaskan Brewery

I can hardly believe that it's only our second full day, when it feels to everyone like a week...or longer! 90% of the time a meteorologist in Juneau can say "rain" and be correct. However, since we arrived, they've been 0 for 2. We had another gorgeous day! Drizzle started tonight, but by then, we were already in.

Today we set off on our first planned trail--Perseverance! While we were eating breakfast this morning, we buddied up with another hostel resident, Clifford from Melbourne, Australia. He was interested in the trail, so we all decided to go together. To catch the trail head, we walked up the steps at the end of our street (Harris), up the long flights of steps, and onto Basin Road.

About a mile down Basin, a couple of women, walking the opposite way, told us they saw a bear sleeping at the base of a tree just off the side of the road. They gave us a detailed description, and we looked for it. Sure enough, at the base of a tree about 50 feet off the road was an adult black bear. Every few seconds, it would raise its head and look around. Then it laid its head back down.

Here is Jen's attempt at capturing a photo:

About 1.5 miles down Basin, we ran into the parking lot at the Mining Museum. At the entrance to the trail, we came across--or rather smelled--our next evidence of "wildlife." A dead porcupine. Along the trail, we saw SEVERAL carcasses, all of them porcupine as best we could tell. We didn't see anymore bears, but we saw the bear's lunch.


We then climbed what has to be the most breath-taking views and multiple layers of mountains that I've EVER seen (we'll try to post photos soon)!




For anyone familiar with the Hatcher's Pass area of Independence Mine on the Parks Highway, the views from this trail puts the Hatcher's Pass scenery to shame! Coincidentally, both are hikes through valleys in avalanche-prone areas to abandoned mines. With a trecherous dropoff just inches from the edge of the trail and a glacier and snow melt class VI (unrunnable) 300 feet below, it was exhilerating!



We were able to see, and get very close to, MANY huge waterfalls that we hiked into from the trail. Thanks to Clifford! If not for his natural curiosity, we would have completely missed the smaller paths...and the incredible power of the waterfalls. This photo is of a hole just below the largest of the waterfalls we saw today.

We continued to hike into the Silverbow Basin, higher and higher until we were crossing 3-4 foot high sections of packed snow and ice in order to stay on the path. Once we reached the end of the trail, we turned to go the last .25 miles to view the remains of the mine. However, with the snow and ice, we couldn't tell where the trail went. At while we were discussing whether to try to go ahead or turn back (we eventually decided to turn back), we heard something "moaning" at us from the tree-covered slope to the left of the trail. After a dozen moans from what we can only guess was an agitated moose, we quickly left the area and hiked back down the trail to downtown.

After a great lunch at the Silverbow Bakery (where our bus friend from yesterday works), 6 of us (including Clifford) boarded the bus bound for the Alaska Brewery. I've never seen anyone who is so anxious to give away free beer. From the moment we entered and asked about the tour, we were informed that we entered the wrong door, and that we should go straight to the bar to get a drink. The tasting party was set up from the lightest Summer Ale to the darkest Oatmeal Stout, with unlimited portions of each. At one point, we had to adamantly refuse refills, or we would have been stumbling back to the bus. Everyone had a favorite, but the general consensus is that Alaskan Amber Ale is the most well-liked. Amber was the Alaskan Brewery's recreated recipe from the Douglas Brewery ingredients from the early 1900s, so it held a piece of Alaskan history that the company maintains today, and it makes up 80% of the Alaskan-brand beer currently being made. Other flavors include internationally awarded Smokehouse Porter (which I thought tasted like campfire), India Pale Ale, Pale Ale, Extra Special Bitter, and others. The company began after its husband-and-wife owners graduated from college (a chemical engineer and an accountant)...what a pair! The first few years, the brewery operated without a staff and used volunteers to bottle the beer. With exceptional fringe benefits, of course!

Tomorrow is a free day, so we're all scattering to the winds to shop, visit Auke Bay, book a sightseeing adventure, and just kick back.

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